Canta y No Llores: 10,000 Calorie Weekends in Mexico City
[Updated March 2022]
What luck to have great friends who live in Mexico City. I've been six times at this point, and expect to go back often. It's vibrant, full of color and delicious food, drinks, music, and close enough to go for a long weekend from the US.
If you’re looking for sights and culture, with a couple of exceptions noted below, I refer you to guidebooks. Below is a list of places to eat, drink, shop in CDMX. Most are in Condesa or Roma, but there are a few outliers. Enjoy!
Tourist experiences you should not miss
National Museum of Anthropology - go early in your time in CDMX. It helps to contextualize the place in history. Amazing collection of artifacts and it feels magical to be among them.
Hot air balloons over the pyramids at Teotihuacan - This was truly magical. Highly recommended. I suggest booking just the balloon ride and taking an Uber out there and back. The packages that come with a balloon ride and transport are a waste of your time - you’re subject to their schedule and their up-sells.
Lucha Libre. Where better to see Mexican wrestling than in the capital of Mexico? Tickets are cheap by American standards. Go ahead and get the good seats.
Plaza Garibaldi. I didn’t think I cared about mariachis until I heard the ones here. Grab a table at Tenampa and get your tipping money ready. This is opera-level mariachi talent.
Restaurants
Pujol is the most famous fine dining spot in CDMX. I had mixed feelings when I went in 2014, but in 2022, I went back for the Omakase Tacos lunch the new Pujol space and it was outstanding. Recommended.
Contramar, Calle de Durango 202, Roma Nte. Outstanding modern Mexican. Seafood focus. Don’t miss the tuna tostadas—my favorite version of this dish anywhere. Squeeze the limes on top. They didn’t seem to have reservations available when I was in town in 2022, but I managed to walk in twice and was seated right away both times.
Azul Condesa, Av Nuevo León 68, Hipódromo. Very good mole (whole menu is good).
Lardo, Agustín Melgar 6, Condesa. It feels a little like Venice, but hot damn the breakfast here was GREAT. Make a reservation.
Pasillo de Humo, Avenida Nuevo León 107, Hipódromo. Noted Oaxacan restaurant.
Carmela y Sal, Torre Virreyes, Calle Pedregal N.24 Del. Tabascan cuisine.
La Guerrerense, Av Nuevo León 107. Celebrated seafood tostadas.
Mariscos Mi Compa Chava, Zacatecas 172, Roma Nte. This is the hot newness. Super lively. Towers of seafood.
Expendio de Maiz, Av. Yucatan 84, Roma Nte. Open for lunch, walk-ins only.
Bars
Favorites:
Tokyo Music Bar - little portal to Japan in CDMX. Make a reservation. Go enjoy. And speak low.
Bósforo, Luis Moya 31, Colonia Centro, Centro. Look for the red curtain. Behind it is a great mezcaleria. No cocktails. Just a great selection of mezcal and good vibes.
Departamento -Álvaro Obregón 154, Roma. Three levels with three different vibes. Current favorite is the rooftop. Go early to avoid paying a cover. If you see a table, try offering a server or busboy a little bribe to make it yours.
El Palenquito, Álavaro Obregón 39B, Roma Norte. Charming little mezcal cocktail bar - opens to the street. Great place to kill a little time before or after dinner.
Others:
Licoreria Limantour, Av. Álvaro Obregón 106, Roma Nte. Famous for its cocktails. And also all of the tourists. I would’ve skipped it this last time, but they’re open Monday when not much else is.
Baltra Bar, Iztaccihuatl 36D, Condesa. Cocktails
Meroma, Colima 150, Roma Nte. Cocktail bar downstairs, restaurant above.
Felina, Calle Ometusco 87, Hipódromo. Cocktails.
La Clandestina, Avenida Álvaro Obregón 298, Condesa. Mezcal bar.
Casa Prunes, Chihuahua 78, Roma Nte. Solid cocktails in a pretty setting.
Snacks + breakfasts
El Moro - famous churrería - yes, that means a place that makes churros. Multiple locations around town. Stop in for churros and your choice of hot chocolate.
Helados Cometa, Colima 162, Roma Nte. Excellent ice cream.
Gelatoscopio, Vasco de Quiroga 3800, Lomas de Vista Hermosa. Ice cream.
Molino El Pujol, Gral. Benjamín Hill 146, Hipódromo Condesa. Enriqe Olivera’s tortilleria. Tiny little counter. Worth the stop. Tortillas, tacos, atole.
Panaderia Rosetta, Main location is at Colima 179, Roma Nte, second location is smaller and less crowded at Puebla 242, Juarez. Outstanding pastries + bread.
Fournier Rousseau, Córdoba 108, Roma Nte. Flan. Almond croissants.
Tacos Don Juan, Calle Juan Escutia 35, Condesa.
La Merced Market, Rosario 156, Centro, Merced Balbuena. Taco stands, Micheladas, mole.
Nómada Heladeria, Avenida Amsterdam 297, Hipódromo. Ice cream.
La Güera de Tortas de Chilaquiles, Alfonso Reyes 139, Hipódromo. Yes. chilaquiles sandwiches.
El Farolito, Altata 19, Hipódromo Condesa. Tacos arracheras.
Lalo!, Zacatecas 173, Roma Nte. Breakfast.
Taqueria Orinoco - locations across town. Cheap and delicious al pastor tacos (“trompo”) with an assortment of salsas. Great for a quick snack or lunch.
Paleta Co., Reynosa 147. Paletas, aka popsicles. Gotta beat that heat somehow…
Shopping
The Shops at Downtown, Calle Isabel la Catolica 30, Centro Histórico. Collection of a few high end local shops in a cool old building. There’s also a branch of Azul restaurant in here that’s a nice place to eat.
Concept Racer, Colima 267, Roma Nte. Nicely designed, motorcycle inspired goods.
Mecha Mancilla, Colima 212, Roma Nte. Jewelry and accessories.
Goodbye Folk, Córdoba 55, Cuauhtémoc. Cool vintage and vintage-inspired clothes and their own line of shoes. This address is the main one. There’s a second, smaller location, but selection was less interesting.
Utilitario Mexicano, Calle Marsella 3a, Juárez. Small shop with simple goods - think mini Mexican Muji.
San Juan Market, 2ᵃ Calle de Ernesto Pugibet 21, Colonia Centro. Traditional Mexican food market that specializes in gourmet provisions. While there, grab a bite at Mariscos Don Vergas upstairs.
La Lagunilla - vintage market on Sundays.
Librería Casa Bosques, Córdoba 25, Roma Nte. Design bookstore.
180° shop, Colima 180, Roma Nte. Clothes.
Pasaje Polanco, off Jules Verne has a number of cute boutiques including Ciceronne which carries locally made jewelry.
Hotels
Bridges & Balloons: The Best Hip Boutique Hotels
Reading
Eater: A Perfect 3-Day Weekend in Mexico City
Food tours
https://clubtengohambre.com/ - recommended!
Dancing
Patrick Miller, Roma. Friday nights. Music seems to change depending on the week, but you can check their schedule online. You’ll want to pre-game your drinking since it’s only beer and sodas.
Departamento - see above in Bars.