Rambla Pa'quí, Rambla Pa'llá, Esa es la Rumba de Barcelona
If I could live anywhere, Barcelona would be on my shortlist. I can’t remember how many times I’ve been there at this point...more than five, less than ten, but I never tire of it. Barcelona has everything I love in a city: great food, friendly bars with good drinks, functional public transit plus it’s easily walkable, has a vibrant cultural life, and some of my favorite architecture anywhere with both Art Nouveau and the magic of Gaudí. Add some vermut on tap and jamón and you get the picture.
I don’t think I fully appreciated Barcelona the first time I went in 1996. I ended up in some dreary hotel in the Barri Gòtic, and I’m pretty sure I was only there for one or two nights, already exhausted from weeks of non-stop train travel. However, on subsequent trips, I have based myself in Gracia or Eixample - neighborhoods that are much more appealing with broader sidewalks, a far better ratio of locals to tourists, and seemingly endless beautiful 19th century buildings.
One of the other perks of Gracia and Eixample is that they are chock full of reasonably priced decent hotels. I’ve also managed to score some great apartment rentals in those areas if that suits you better. You’re also well situated to visit your choice of Gaudí spaces. I like to ogle La Pedrera and Casa Batllo from the outside and go into Sagrada Familia (buy tickets in advance on your phone) or Parc Guell, but I hear the park has started to charge for entry since the last time I was there.
Gaudí is far from the only art in town: MACBA is an excellent contemporary art museum in a building designed by Richard Meier. It’s also home to an outstanding outdoor mural by Keith Haring.
On this visit, I also learned about a space on the edge of town for street art called Nau Bostik. Not close to anything else you might want to visit, but worth the quick subway or bus trip. There’s another similar active contemporary art space I didn’t make it to called La Escocesa that looks like it’s worth a visit.
But now to the most important parts: eating and drinking.
Obviously, you should eat at one of the markets. The most famous is La Boqueria, but it’s overrun with buses of tourists now. If you want a less crowded option, check out San Antoni or Santa Caterina.
My lovely friend Chris Reeves took the time to add all of the restaurants and bars into a Google map which you can access here.
Restaurants
Berbena - outstanding meal for a great price. The owner is a delight. Go!
Abac - if you’re in the market for three Michelin stars, this will do you right.
Dos Palillos - Michelin starred Asian small plates inside the Camper hotel.
El Barri - the set of restaurants from the Ferran brothers, includes Tickets. Recommended if you can get a booking.
Bars (some may also have food)
Bar Bodega Quimet - old man bar with very affordable vermut and sherry. I love this bar.
Boadas - another favorite old man bar - this one for old school cocktails and old school bartenders.
Gimlet - part of the Dry Martini family
Bakeries/etc.
Formatgeria La Seu - cheese shop